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A Color Specialist

Hair Color Expert operating from California who focuses on grey hair. Among his clientele are Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I highly recommend a microfibre towel, or even a soft cotton T-shirt to towel-dry your locks. Many are unaware how much stress a standard towel can do, notably with grey or color-processed hair. A simple switch can really reduce frizz and breakage. A second budget-friendly essential is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps maintain the integrity of the strands, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with smart temperature control. Grey and blonde hair can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

Self-applied color lifting. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. These chemical systems are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause lasting harm or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their particular strand characteristics. Some overuse violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. Some depend excessively on protein-rich treatments and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. The other major issue is heat styling without protection. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a protective product, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. I also recommend scalp formulas with active ingredients to stimulate circulation and support follicle health. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown positive outcomes. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by balancing body chemistry, stress and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be successful. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than seeking quick fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Trichologist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home every two weeks to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had significant shedding – and also presently during some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. Because locks are secondary, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the optimal outcomes. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the main goal of cleansing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – notably in cases of dandruff, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If natural oils stay on the head, they decompose and cause irritation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. Sometimes, hormonal problems or dietary gaps are responsible – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus